Our main daytrips out of Lisbon were mostly to beaches. Beaches abound outside of Lisbon and it doesn’t take long on a train from city centere to hit one. Locals tend to poo poo the closest beaches but it depends on what you are looking for. For us a nearby restaurant and an even closer bathroom were our only must haves and they were available at almost every beach.
The beaches themselves were all that one expects from a beach. Vast swaths of pale brown sand, that in some cases are tens of kilometers long, interspersed with rocks leading up to clear, blue water. Frankly, we just got off the train at beaches that looked enticing and were never disappointed. But of you want an overview Baby Loves Travel has put together a list their favorites here.
On the downside, the water was cold, even for my “Danish” preschooler. And the ocean is the ocean: with rips, undertows, and deceptively strong currents. There are several surf spots near Lisbon. Life guards are rare. In October, off season, we saw none. As the posted signs say, swim at your own risk.
For young children the beaches struck me as better for sand play and a bit of wading. Which, as you know if you’ve been around young children, is pretty perfect. The kids can frolic on the sand and play with water. LB loved to run back and forth with the waves screaming in outraged delight when one occasionally caught her. We built sandcastles, had picnics, ate seafood, the adults had wine, and we all generally had a blast. All of the beaches we went to were on the train line. For the most part, the trains dropped us off right at the beach!
If you have time, Casçais, is a town/suburb about 40 minutes away by public transport and a fulsome daytrip. One could even stay overnight. We went to there during our friend D’s visit. In Casçais we ate lunch at the food court in Casçais Villa. This food court has two things to recommend it: the views and the prices. The food wasn’t bad either, particularly the homemade soup. There is also a play zone. If you’re not worried about atmosphere the food court may be a good spot for an early dinner. You can look over the water and watch the sunset.
Another thing about the food court is the crazy deals on wine. D and SM wanted some wine to take down to the beach so D went to the kiosk from which she’d bought lunch and asked for a go cup. The guy took a plastic pint cup, filled it with wine, gave her a glass on the side. She then had him fill SM’s half liter thermos, give him a glass on the side, and all for 6€. But that deal might exclusively be for hotties like D.
Since there were the two of them to watch LB I felt I could sneak away to explore the old town with a clear conscience while they enjoyed the beach. Don’t get me wrong, like most reasonable people I enjoy beaches. Living so near the water, a fifteen minute amble, is one of the things I will miss most about Copenhagen. But, I’m not a hang out on a beach towel hour after hour, day after day person. Ideally, I prefer to be in the water. I love to swim in the sea. (Do I really need to say in 2019 that Black people swim?) But I grew up on the Dirty Coast and don’t do cold water. Also, life experience has made me a lot more wary and aware of the ocean so life guards are definitely a must. If I am not going swimming I need a book, a podcast, or a cocktail, preferably all three.
As it turns out, the train ends in Casçais and drops you in the middle of town. To get to the beach we all had to meander through the old city. And it’s a really lovely meander. The crew chose to go to Praia da Rainha which literally translates as “The Queen’s beach” in honour of the last queen of Portugal, Queen Amélia. It’s a tiny little cove right off the old city and you have to climb down stairs to get to it. Due to its location it can be crowded, it certainly was when we went. Waves of about half a meter/one and a half feet. For food, drinks, and facilities, one has to just pop up the stairs.
After everyone was settled I slipped off to explore a bit. Just on the other side of Praia da Rainha is the massive stretch of sand I later learned to be two beaches, Praia da Conceição and Praia da Duquesa. I saw them at low tide, when they were connected. Apparently high tide separates them. Bars and cafes line a concrete path behind the beach making access easy and there are life guards during the summer season, though not in October.
Unfortunately, we were not get up and go people on vacay even BK, but now if we are out by 10 we are doing well. By the time we got to Casçais, got lunch, got to the beach, got settled, and I finally started my meander many of the places I wanted to meander to were near enough to closing time that it wasn’t worth it to make my way to them. Ultimately, I ended up enjoying my own glass of wine overlooking the Marina at a cafe situated by the Citadel. Not a bad way to enjoy an afternoon.
Our next adventure in the town was very different. We were in Lisbon during Halloween and I was determined that LB would get a proper Halloween experience. In Copenhagen Halloween is catching on for littles and adults alike. That is not the case in Lisbon. After joining several expat mom groups and even offering to set something up myself in a nearby park someone sent me a link to a trunk or treat in Casçais.
Totally worth it. Despite beimg plagued with bad weather the day of, and the entire week before, there were at least 30 or 40 other kids and a dozen or so trunkers who had decorated their cars and even provided games and challenges for the kids. Dare I say, it was even more fun than straight trick or treating! So, Cora’s first memories of Halloween will probably be from a random beach town in Portugal.