I wanted to mention a little something about transport. Train tickets are easy to purchase at vending machines on the platforms. But, since we were there for a month a monthly pass, which is deeply discounted, made sense. So we headed down to the ferry station where the main transport office is. Us and about 300 other people. I’m not exaggerating. Our number was 296. We couldn’t even get to forms, which were inside the office, until we were called. After waiting for half an hour and seeing how slowly the numbers were passing we realized that the only way we’d be seen that day was if at least a hundred people in front of us did what we were about to do. Bail.
Even without the discount public transport in Lisbon is very affordable. So we put twenty euro on our cards, kids are mostly free- it’s complicated. More on that later. Anyway, we loaded up our cards and grabbed a ferry across the river. Mainly because we were there. We ate at a seafood place, just pick one. They all looked good. Then we wandered around a little which is when we found the other transport office.
The office on the other side of the river. A short walk from the ferry terminal. Around the corner from the row of restaurants. Just opposite the submarine and antique sailing ship was not busy. The necessary forms were laid out to be taken and filled out beforehand. SM breezed in and breezed back out less than half an hour later. Unfortunately, since we’d already put non-refundable money on our cards, the monthly pass was no longer cost effective for us. But, other than the fee for the physical card, LB’s pass was free.
We got the card because, even though LB was free on public transport most of the time it wasn’t all of the time. And it wasn’t always clear when we might have to pay. On top of this, sometimes, even when she was free, she still needed a ticket. Confused? So were we. So it seemed easier to just spend the few euros on the pass. That said, Lisbon’s transport cops seemed a lot more understanding than the hardcore cops of Copenhagen or Switzerland.
In short: if you plan to be in Lisbon a month or more go across the river for your transport pass.
Back to Casçais. We were in Casçais well into the evening which meant we got hungry. Unfortunately, the whole Portugal eats late thing was even more true here with restaurants away from the old town touristy area closing between lunch and dinner. Since the Portuguese eat late, this meant that restaurants didn’t open for dinner until 6 at the earliest. Which we discovered as we wandered up and down the streets up the hill away from the beachside.
Fortunately for us one of the places that opened at 6 was Taberna Clandestina Cascais. This is a quaint little nook with food that tastes like it was gathered that morning. Then we went on to A Nova Estrela where I dearly wish we had had the fried sardines which looked amazing and where, at the end of the meal, they dropped a couple of bottles of booze on the table and told us to let them know when we finished with them. Crazy, right?
Aside from beaches and Casçais our other major daytrip was Sintra. We grabbed an Uber up and took the train back. By Sintra the weather had well and truly turned on us and it was a dreary, wet morning as we made our way to the mountain town. Neither the food nor drink we encountered there was worthy of note.
A resort town in the foothills of Portugal’s Sintra Mountains, Sintra is about a 30 minute drive from Lisbon. A retreat for royalty and those that would court royal favor the tree covered hills are spotted with lavish villas and palaces. We chose to spend our time in the Sintra National Palace (Palácio Nacional de Sintra). In Moorish and Manueline style it is distinguished by its twin chimneys, ornately painted ceilings, and elaborate tilework. Frankly, it was just my type.
Seriously. I looooved this palace. Which is rare for. Usually palaces are both under and overwhelming. They are big, with lots of rooms but are also kind of blah in a gilded kind of way. I do have a blatant affinity for the Moorish style. And this was gothic Moorish, something I”d never before seen. This palace had the balanced elegance of the Moorish atyle with the richness of the gothic style. An absolutely perfect blend. I was ready to move right in
Unfortunately, besides yet another playground, that is all of Sintra that we got to see. The windy, rainy weather was not conducive to a meander. Under different circumstances Sintra is big enough with attractions enough to make it worth at least an overnight if not a long weekend. Maybe we’ll have better luck next time.